Every meter of textile material produced today bears the memory and knowledge and accumulated over centuries and millennia, during which the person was engaged in one of the oldest technologies.
At least six thousand years ago, before the first man-made fibers (late 19th century), people already knew and used the four most important natural fibers: linen, cotton, wool and silk. Archaeological excavations show that even at the earliest stages of development, these people knew how to grow and process the fiber in the product.
First mastered, domesticated man was flax fiber. Five thousand years before the birth of Xristova in the valley of the Nile River in what is now Egypt were made of linen cloth. Residents found by archaeologists on the shores of the Swiss lakes of the ancient settlement that flourished in the late Stone Age (Neolithic ~ 8 – 3 thousand. BC), knew how to spin and weave of the linen.
The second most important fiber that has mastered the man was wool. In the Neolithic period (late Stone Age) man used along with linen wool. Residents of the same ancient settlement on the territory of modern Switzerland bred sheep. In the valley of the Euphrates (Ancient Mesopotamia) bred sheep, spun wool and wove primitive tissue, in ancient Babylon started doing woolen fabrics. This corresponds to approximately 3500 BC.
The third most important fiber of human exploration – cotton. The first tangible evidence of its production refers to 1000 BC, as evidenced by the archaeological excavations of a settlement in India.
One of the mysteries of human civilization is a question,: how people learned to grow cotton, spin it and weave cloth out of it at the same time on different continents (Asia and South America, in the country of the ancient Incas – Peru). Still undiscovered by Europeans in South America, the ancient Incas started doing cotton fabrics excellent by today’s standards of color design and quality.
Thus, these techniques have been mastered in prehistoric times to the separated from each other by thousands of miles continents.
The fact is that in Egypt 2500 years BC were able to make fabrics of the highest quality that rivals modern. Egyptian mummies that time were wrapped in tissue density of 540 threads per inch 1. Best current British fabrics of this type have a density of 350 yarns per one inch.
The fourth most important natural fiber – silk. Probably the homeland of its production was China. Legend has it that a Chinese empress Xen-Ling-Chi (~ 2600 years BC. Oe), the first to discover this wonderful fiber. She accidentally dropped a cocoon into hot water and saw that separated from the softened cocoon silk thread. Empress realized the possibility of using these threads. Thus was born the ancient culture of silk-based livelihoods silkworm feed on leaves of white mulberry (mulberry). It is true that technology vydelyvaniya silk fabrics exactly is happening or from China or other countries in the Far East and its birth corresponds to approximately 3000 BC
The Chinese brought the culture and manufacture of silk and silk fabrics to perfection and about 1400 BC fabrics of silk and various kinds of clothing of them were the subject of habitual consumption in these countries.
Thus, the four natural fibers have been mastered and used for the production of fabrics prehistoric man in the technological scheme: growing – spinning – weaving. This simple scheme, which was invented more than six thousand years ago, did not change until now, having risen from manual to highly automated high-speed (robotics) technology. Simple spinning wheel and weaving machines that are at the excavations of ancient settlements, based on the same principles as the modern automated textile spinning and weaving equipment.
In this paper, we present characteristics, classification and range of textile products; defined quality requirements, labeling and storage; a description of the new technology in the manufacture of linen fabrics, as well as its own proposal on advertising of textile products in the store.
The total amount of work ___ pages, bibliography includes 8 sources.
1 Characteristics of textile fibers
Production of textile involves the following steps: making fibers; processing them into yarn (yarn), whose acquisition is composed of yarns for weaving preparation, weaving, finishing, sorting, labeling, storage and packing.
The fibers are the source material for this group of products and the main factor influencing their consumer properties. From each other fibers differ in their chemical composition, structure and properties. Taking into account the classification criteria fibers are divided into:
1) Natural. These include fibers of natural origin: plant (cotton, flax, jute, kenaf, hemp); animal origin (wool, silk); mineral (asbestos).
2) Chemical. These include fibers made at the factory. In this case, chemical fibers are divided into artificial and synthetic:
man-made fibers (viscose, acetate, polynosic, cuprammonium) is prepared from natural polymers, which are formed in the process of development and growth of fibers (cellulose, fibroin, keratin). To the fabric of synthetic fibers include: acetate, viscose, staple, modal. These fabrics are perfectly breathable, very long stay dry and pleasant to the touch. Today, all these fabrics are widely used by manufacturers of linen, and, thanks to the latest technology, are able to replace the natural;
synthetic fiber (nylon, polyester, nitrone, chlorine, vinyl, polyethylene, polypropylene, spandex) are prepared by synthesis from natural low molecular compounds (phenol, ethylene, acetylene, methane, etc.). the polymerization reaction or polycondensation mainly from petroleum products , coal and natural gas.
Cotton – specific fiber surrounding the seeds in a box of cotton bush (cotton). The color is often white or cream, but there are brown and green. Also divided by grades. Dyed cotton well and almost does not burn. Special treatment of alkali achieved brilliance cotton thread. On the strength of cotton yarn gives linen or silk, but wool is superior. Cotton absorbs moisture quickly. Cotton strongly “sits”, as well as long dries. The effect of warming in cotton rather low, but higher than that of flax. Therefore made ??of cotton can be worn when not too hot and moderate temperatures.
Len – the most strong yarn. High durable properties, tensile strength in the wet state increased. High temperature resistance (can be boiled). Resistant to alkalis, but under the influence of acid destroyed. Product of it is easier to absorb moisture and dries easier than cotton or wool. Linen is not compressed at high temperatures and does not shrink. In hot and very hot weather products from flax preferably cotton. A distinguishing feature of flax is that as wine, with age, its quality and beauty become better. Linen is difficult to paint or vybelivat. Therefore, the most frequent of flax yarn, natural, gray and beige colors.
Wool. According to its characteristics of wool yarn easier than plant and more elastic. High hygroscopic, resistant to acids, but is destroyed by the action of alkali. Not so fast, get wet in wet environments, but less durable. High elasticity (little wrinkled), low thermal resistance (very high shrinkage). Very high teploaktivnye (protective) properties (low thermal conductivity, heat conducts bad). Absorbs moisture slowly and gives slow. The disadvantages of wool can take it svalivaemost and education on her pellets in friction. Moreover, the weaker the twisted yarn, the more pronounced these shortcomings.
Silk similar to wool, hygroscopicity is lower than that of wool. Produced from the cocoons of the silkworm culture. “Crude” silk thread can be white, yellow or green. The yarn obtained from wild species, has a brown color. Contrary to accepted opinion, silk holds heat well. It is practically not formed pellets. It is quite strong, not deformed and beautifully painted. Silk products readily absorb moisture. Unstable to light.
Viscose fibers – are fibers of an alkali solution xanthate. Viscose fiber has good hygroscopicity (35-40%), light fastness and softness. Viscose fiber is used in the manufacture of fabrics for clothes, linen and garments, both in pure form or in admixture with other fibers and filaments. Polynosic fiber – a modified viscose rayon fiber. According to the properties it is approaching cotton. Polynosic fiber has greater strength than a rayon fiber. The fiber has a higher elasticity. Acetate and triacetate fibers in its structure similar to viscose but have larger grooves along the fiber. Strength of cellulose acetate fibers viscose below. Sufficiently elastic, are resistant to microorganisms, lightfast, have dielectric properties.
Polyamide fibers – nylon, Anido, enanth – the most widespread. Feedstock for him are processed coal or oil – benzene and phenol. Polyamide fibers have high tensile strength, resistant to abrasion, flexing, possess high chemical resistance, frost resistance, resistance to the action of microorganisms. Their main disadvantages are low hygroscopicity and light resistance, high and low temperature resistance electrified. The rapid “aging” in the light they turn yellow and become brittle and stiff. Polyamide fibers and yarns are widely used in the development of the hosiery and knitwear, sewing threads, haberdashery (lace, ribbons), lace, ropes, fishing nets, conveyor belts, cords, fabrics for industrial use.
Polyester fibers – polyester, produced from petroleum products. One of the distinguishing characteristics Dacron is its high elasticity, elongation at up to 8% strain is completely reversible. Unlike nylon polyester collapses under the action of acids and alkalis, hygroscopic it is lower than nylon (0.4%), and therefore to produce polyester fabrics domestic purposes in its pure form is not applicable. The fiber is thermally stable, has low thermal conductivity and great elasticity that allows to receive from it the product retains its shape; have a low shrinkage. Disadvantages of fiber are its increased rigidity, the ability to form a peeling on the surface of articles and strong electrified. Polyester is widely used in the development of tissues domestic purposes in a mixture of wool, cotton, linen and viscose fiber, which gives the product a high resistance to abrasion and elasticity. He also has been successfully used in the production of non-woven fabrics, sewing thread, curtains, industrial fabrics and cord. Furthermore, the fiber used in medicine for the manufacture of surgical sutures, and blood vessels.
Acrylic fiber – Nitron – product of processing coal, oil or gas. In appearance and to the touch long fibers like silk and staple – on natural wool. Products made of this fiber after washing fully retain their shape, do not require ironing. Nitron fiber has a number of valuable properties: by shielding property, it is superior to wool, has a low hygroscopicity (1.5%), softer and silky nylon and polyester, resistant to mineral acids, alkalis, organic solvents, bacteria, mildew, moths, nuclear radiation . On the abrasion resistance of nitrone yields polyamide and polyester fibers. Used in the manufacture of knitted outerwear, dress fabrics and furs and knitted cloth, rugs, blankets and fabrics for industrial use.
Polyurethane fiber – spandex. Fiber having a low hygroscopicity. Feature of all polyurethane fibers is their high elasticity – elongation at break of up to 800%, the share of firm and elastic deformation – 92-98%. This feature defines the area of ??their use. Spandex is used mainly in the manufacture of flexible products. Using this fiber produce fabrics and knitted fabrics for feminine toilet, sportswear, and hosiery.
Chlorine, vinol, letilan, polyethylene, polipropilen. Of them are made raincoat and decorative fabrics, pile faux fur, carpets, medical linens.
Textile yarn similar to fibers formed consumer properties of textiles. Textile yarn – is flexible and strong body with small transverse dimensions, of considerable length, used for the manufacture of textiles. Depending on the production method they are divided into not spun and spun yarn (yarn). Called filament yarn consisting of fibers bonded by twisting sometimes gluing.
2: Classification, range and characteristics of fabrics
The process of formation of fabric systems strands arranged in mutually perpendicular directions and interconnected weave is called weaving. He has a key role in shaping the structure of the tissue, which has a large impact on its consumer properties. The following process fabric finishes – a complex chemical and physico-chemical effects on the fabric to improve its consumer properties. Particular its effect on the aesthetic properties of the fabric.
Range of fabrics on the commodity composition, structure and types of finishes diverse. And their purpose is different. On these grounds and classify tissue: in groups of one of the signs, and then – on the sub-group on the basis of another, then – on the species and varieties.
By appointment household fabrics are divided into linen (sheets, Skatertniy, polotenchaty canvas), clothes (of dress, costume, costumes and of dress, coats, lining), Tapestry and others.
On the commodity composition of the tissue divided by the cotton, linen, wool and silk, including every one of them in the mixed.
There is a trade tissue classification adopted price lists retail prices, which, taking into account the specific characteristics of the development and structure of cotton, linen, wool and silk fabrics are divided into groups and subgroups according to various criteria. Thus, by dividing into groups of tissues:
cotton and linen fabrics are classified according to community structure or industrial lines (calico and satin, canvas and towels smooth, wide and narrow);
wool – to a process for producing yarn (worsted, fine – and grubosukonnye) and commodity composition (pure – and wool blend);
silk – for raw composition and whichever of the yarns or yarn cloth developed;
trim – gray, bleached fabric, plain dyed, variegated fabric, printed.
Range of cotton fabrics is very high, their share in the total production of fabrics is 70%. They are used to make all kinds of clothes. Most of the fabric (over 80%) is produced from pure cotton and relatively small – with chemical fibers (viscose, lavsan, nylon, nitronic) and fibers (viscose, acetate, capron). Cotton fabrics have high hygienic properties, sufficiently strong and durable, easy to process (do not move during cutting, do not resist cutting, plastic, not cut through the needle and do not give razdvizhki threads in the seams, do not crumble). These disadvantages are the high shrinkage and creasing. Of these, sew mostly summer clothes, children’s clothes, underwear.
Chintz – produce plain weave of carded yarn average linear density (18 tex base 15 tex weft), the surface density of an average of 100 g / m 2, the width of 65-95 cm. Often printed calico. Apply for an easy dress, lingerie.
Calico – produce plain weave of carded yarn. They are denser and heavier than calico. The surface density of an average of 140 g / m 2, the width of 60-100 cm. Release their colored and padded. Used for easy dresses, lingerie, linings.
Satin – produce satin weave of combed carded yarn with a surface density of 100-140 g / m 2. Produce one-colored, printed and embossed. Almost all sateens merserizuyut with a view to ensuring the sustainability shine. Apply for easy dresses, lingerie, linings.
Volta – the most delicate fabric, translucent, soft combed yarns of plain weave. The surface density of 60 g / m 2, 90 cm wide, on the basis of the relative density of 45%. Usually with a printed pattern. It is used for dresses, blouses, nightgowns.
Baptiste – a thin transparent combed plain weave fabric, somewhat denser volts. The surface density of 71 g / m 2, the width of 70-90 cm. Usually with printed white-land pattern. It is used for dresses, blouses, nightgowns.
Voile – a thin translucent plain weave fabric of combed yarn twist increased, making it more elastic, granular. The surface density of 35%. Used for elegant dresses, blouses.
Poplin – rubchikovaya plain weave fabric of carded yarn. Transverse scar is formed due to the thicker weft or greater density in weft. Mercerization gives shine and silky fabrics. Used for sewing dresses, blouses, shirts. By coloring the fabric bleached and one-colored.
Flannel – a fabric woven and twill with double-sided fleece rare. The surface density of 250 g / m2, width 90 cm. Flannel produce one-colored or printed. Used to sew winter children’s dresses, dressing gowns, pajamas, shirts. Bumazeya – differs from flannel that produced twill weave with a rare one-sided fleece with front or reverse side. Use fustian just like flannel.
Bike – the thick and heavy fabric dvulitsevogo weave with double thick fleece. Produce one-colored, width up to 100 cm. Apply for clothing, blankets, insulation in shoes. Velvet weft-pile fabric with a surface density of 340 g / m 2. The fabric is soft, with good heat-shielding properties. Apply for a winter dress. Very difficult to process tissue.
Velvet – ribbed corduroy and have a pile of scars of different width. In velvet-hem them smaller. Making the same as that of velvet. Fabric of dress different names is frequently updated fabric produced by different coloring, weaving, finishing, depending on the direction of fashion.
The range of linen fabrics, only about 40% comes from the fabric stores. Linen fabrics have unique hygienic properties quickly absorb and give moisture vapor – and breathable, thermal conductivity, which makes them perfect for a variety of sewing summer clothes. In addition to good hygienic properties, linen fabrics have a high wear resistance, good wash out. Flax yarn compared to cotton thicker, so the linen cloth is thicker and heavier cottons. The disadvantage of linen fabrics is their high creases.
On the fiber composition of linen fabrics are divided according to the percentage of flax fibers in the pure flax (100%), half-linen (not less than 30%), linen (not less than 92%). Pure flax fabrics are not produced. The largest share (about 80%) of the total output of linen fabrics are semilinen generated based on the usually of cotton yarn and weft – of flax yarn or mixed with man-made fibers, most lnolavsanovoy. The classic linen fabrics include:
Fig.2. linen
Fabrics – they are released linen and half-linen, white and semi-white, linen and jacquard weave. Jacquard damask fabric called. Depending on the thickness, the web is divided into very thin (linen batiste), thin, medium, semi-coarse, coarse. Use fabric for the manufacture of bed and table linen suits. Sew dresses fabric used different names.
Buckram – gasket material of linen yarn dry spinning, weaving linen can be clean linen and half-linen. Buckram produced severe, one-colored, with a non-shrink finishing, adhesive coating. Can be produced and lnokapronovaya lnonitronovaya crinoline.
Of linen fabrics and piece goods domestic purposes greatest share of linen fabric and finished products – tablecloths, napkins, towels, blankets.
Woolen fabrics are one of the groups of varieties of fabrics. In the total production of fabrics they account for about 10%, but by the number of articles (about 1000), the commodity composition, structure and types of finishes range of this group of fabrics is great and has a lot of variety.
To apply awarded pure wool fabric containing 95-100% wool. They are allowed to enter up to 5% of the fibers of another form only for the external effect. Wool fabric along with wool, which must be at least 20%, contain other fibers and yarns – cotton, viscose, acetate, nylon, Dacron, nitronic metallized. Blend them with wool the most diverse. Are optimal mixture, when the content lavsanovyh or nitric fibers does not exceed 50% viscose – 30%. This content has no significant impact on the deterioration of the hygienic properties of fabrics, creasing and shrinkage. With the introduction of nylon fibers and lavsan significantly improved wear resistance, viscose fibers gives the fabric softness.
Woolen fabrics are beautiful, durable and have good thermal insulation properties. According to a method of producing wool fabrics are divided into worsted, and fine-grubosukonnye. Worsted fabrics of combed yarn thin with a distinct pattern of the weave, solid and resilient. Used for sewing dresses, suits and, in limited quantities, coat.
Of dress fabric. Crepe – produced crepe weave of the yarns increased twist, can be pure wool and part-wool, usually dyed in different colors. Good drape, but difficult to process because of the large osypaemosti and extensibility. Width 140 cm.
Cashmere – pure wool or wool fabric twill, dyed or printed on colored markings dresses, shawls (Pavlovsky Posad shawls). Width 140 cm. Plaid – pure wool or wool blend fabrics plain or twill weave (rarely melkouzorchataya). Width 140 cm. Fabrics of dress different names. Their structure, coloring and finishing depend on the direction of fashion.
Fig.3. tights
Suit fabrics. Cheviot – cheap wool blend twill fabric with the addition of cotton yarn at the base width of 142 and 152 cm.
Tights – it’s pure wool and wool blend fabrics produced by weaving spun, usually multi-colored, and the color-melange.
Crepes costume – a pure wool fabric of the highest quality spun produced satin or twill weave. Produced usually dyed black. Recommended for tailoring wedding suits and frachnyh pairs. Suit fabrics of different names. Pure wool and wool blend fabrics, structure and processing depend on the direction of fashion. Fine-fabric produced from woolen spinning, heavier, thick, fluffy, can be combed with a nap or felt-like enveloping the. Used for sewing coats, suits and limited dresses.
Denim – most produce twill, dyed blue and blue tones. On the commodity composition are half-wool with a little wool content (25-36%).
Coat tissue. Drapes – the largest group of fabrics, produced a two-layer or polutorasloynym weave quite thick and heavy (410-800 g / m 2), can be pure wool, half-wool, with varying degrees rolls. The color-melange, and multi-colored-colored. Mens heavier drapes. In the processing is not complicated.
Drapes-Ratinov – usually pure wool fabric with nizkovorsovye ratinirovannym pile. The drapes have good heat-shielding properties and wear resistance.
Cloth – pure wool and wool blends are produced linen or twill weave dense, well-bumpkin, smooth-dyed and melange. They are thinner and lighter drapes (310-700 g / m 2).
Tweed – pure wool and wool blend fabrics plain, twill or melkouzorchatyh multicolored weaves a 2-color or multi-color design. Used for sewing jackets, jackets.
Grubosukonnye fabrics are made of thick woolen spinning coarse wool. They are thick, rough and prickly to the touch and are used for sewing soldiers’ uniforms and economy coat.
Figure 4. silk
Assortment of silk fabrics is different from other large variety, especially on the commodity composition and structure of yarns, fabrics and types of finishes, which in turn is reflected in the diversity of their consumer properties. Compared with other production of silk fabrics develops most intensively. This is explained by the fact that 97% of silk fabrics produced from man-made fibers and yarns. For making use of silk fabrics silk, artificial and synthetic fibers and filaments, as well as other natural fibers. Within the scope of silk fabrics of silk represents approximately 4%, and therefore they are recommended to use for fancy dresses and blouses. Woven fabrics of silk interesting, with good hygienic properties, good drape. Variety range of fabrics and reach through the use of yarns of different structures – flat, muslin, crepe, moskrepovoy twists; mono, integrated, testurirovannyh, molded and modified fibers. These disadvantages include the low wear resistance, loss of strength in the wet state, the complexity of processing (osypaemost opportunity razdvizhki in the seams and prorubaemost needle and slipping when cutting). The classic silk fabrics include:
Crepe-chiffon – the most slim, lightweight transparent crepe plain weave fabric. Produced colored and padded. Very difficult to handle.
Georgette – a thin translucent crepe plain weave fabric. Has high hardness, elasticity.
Crepe de chine – polukrepovaya plain weave fabric with a relative density. The fabric is opaque, with a moderate luster and fine-grained surface.
Crepe satin – polukrepovaya fabric satin weave with a relative density of 69% of the filaments. Wrong side formed crepe yarns has a granular surface, face smooth and shiny. Coloring smoothly painted and printed.
Twal – satin plain weave fabric, a relative density of 68%, the surface density of 67 g / m 2, width 90 Clean painted. It is used for lining in expensive coats and suits.
Velvet – osnovovorsovogo fabric weave, the surface density of 63 g / m 2, producing smooth dyed, printed. Very difficult to handle, requires special equipment to perform, moist heat treatment. Industry produces mordant velvet (the basis of natural silk, pile of artificial fibers etched stencil acid composition).
Tapestry fabric. Use these fabrics for upholstery, curtains manufacturing, curtains, covers, etc. They come in a subgroup of fabrics for special purposes. Tapestry fabrics should be especially beautiful, so they mainly produce jacquard weaves or melkouzorchatymi. Finishing develop their multi-colored or dyed.
Furthermore, there are non-woven materials, artificial fur and a laminated material.
Nonwovens (paintings) called textile fabrics made directly from textile fibers, yarns systems (warp and weft) or framework materials (fabrics, knitted fabrics, films), fastened in various ways: mechanical, physical, chemical and combined.
Production of non-woven materials is growing rapidly, due to the high economic efficiency technologies: a significant reduction in process cycle (for example, the exclusion of a laborious process of weaving), high-performance equipment used, as well as the possibility of using cheap raw materials (for example, short nepryadomyh fibers).
Artificial fur – a textile product on the appearance and properties resembling fur. Faux fur also consists of a base and a dirt pile cover. For the manufacture of ground cotton yarn typically used, and sometimes the yarn of chemical fibers. To create a pile cover use chemical fiber, with properties similar to wool (nitronic, Mylar). In small quantities, using wool, viscose and acetate fibers.
Duplicated materials – include materials derived from two or three materials fastened together. Obverse them consists of a base material – fabrics, knitted, non-woven fabric, faux fur, and seamy foam (in two-layer materials) or backing material (in the three-layer materials). Bond duplicate materials produce an adhesive (adhesive method) or melting foam (firing method). Duplicated materials are used mainly manufacturing length outerwear (coats, jackets) and shoes. They combine the positive properties of the component materials, have a beautiful appearance, form-stable.
3 Requirements for the quality of textile products, the defects
Different groups of textile products (cotton, linen, wool, silk, knitted, nonwoven webs) have their own individual standards, where all the quality indicators are divided into basic and specialized. The main indicators of control for all tissues, regardless of their destination. These include the composition of raw materials (fiber content), the thickness of the yarn (yarn), density, width, weight, breaking strength, color fastness, shrinkage of tissue. Specialized indicators set depending on the purpose of tissue, as for some tissues, such as linen, important are hygroscopic, abrasion resistance and others., For suit – aesthetics, wrinkle resistance, and others., For raincoat – absorb liquids, etc.
Monitoring the quality of textile materials involves a check of conformity of quality fabrics with regulatory and technical documentation. Determination of grade textile products, is one of the basic operations of quality control in the trade. Variety – this gradation of textile material a certain type and destination on one or more indicators of quality. For all fabrics, piece goods, nonwoven fabrics are two varieties – the 1st and 2nd, and for silk fabrics and artificial furs – 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Proceedings of the 1st class in terms of consumer properties must comply with the technical requirements of the OTU (TU), and possible defects (defects) appearance may be only minor. Materials for the 2nd (3rd) grade some deviations from the norms of performance properties and the presence of a certain number of defects in appearance.
Grades of textile materials is also dependent on the presence of defects in their appearance. Since the same defect in varying degrees affects the decline in the quality of materials of different purpose (for example, scars spoils the appearance of clothing fabrics and little effect on the quality of linen fabrics), the defects of textile materials other than wool fabrics were evaluated according to their purpose. Therefore, the standards for determining the grade of materials provided by the division into groups according to purpose.
Defects in appearance is determined by viewing razbrakovochnyh tables each piece of fabric on the front side with the reflected or natural light.
By birth defects in appearance materials are divided into raw material, weaving (knitting), finishes. They may be spread throughout the local piece and located on a limited portion of the piece. Common defects significantly detracts from the appearance of materials, and in the 1st grade, they are not allowed, and the 2nd is allowed no more than one common defect.
By common defects are: raw – clogged by foreign matter, mushkovatost, knobbly yarn, color variations, streaking; Weaving (knitting) – violation of the figure; finishes – skewed pattern and fabric, dyeing Unevenness, rastraf. The local defects are: raw materials – thicker warp and weft threads, the local thickening of the filaments (neproryady, rallies, hills, etc..) weaving – little chil, spans, NEDOSEKOV, nicks, podpletiny, podnyrki, couples; finishes – oil and contaminated spots, bent, torn, wavy edge; serifs, Zamina, local defects dyeing and printing.
Gross defects in tissues of graded and are not allowed to be cut-out piece or cut at the factory. If gross defects were missed and detected by grading of trading organizations, they are cut and sent to the supplier to pay costs and fees.
Inadmissible tissue defects include: commodity – bandwidth of yarns of different thicknesses, colors, and oil contaminated duck; weaving – rallies, hills, and open podpletiny bases greater than 1 cm, NEDOSEKOV, nicks, violation of the weave pattern, flying duck, scars in three threads and more; finish – strip away the stop dyeing or printing machine, pocket of paint, dyeing and printing serifs, prints from the seams, zataski, clicks and spot longer than 2 cm, holes, punctures, torn edge.
Determination of grade of piece goods has some peculiarities. Assessment of local defects are also produced by the restrictive system, but they include not only the appearance of defects in tissue, but also manufacturing defects – curved, wavy, zigzag, laced edge, reducing the length and number of strands (brushes) fringe bending lines Ajour, undercut and others. For piece goods are two varieties of the 1st and 2nd. Boxed products 1st grade common defects are not allowed in products 2nd class no more than one common defect.
In assessing the quality of the game taking the number of pieces, rolls of fabric and piece goods of one name, article, grade and type of finish, decorated a document certifying the quality. In appearance, artistic and aesthetic indicators for compliance packaging and labeling requirements of quality assurance subjected the whole lot. On physical-mechanical properties (density, mass, breaking load, etc..) Is carried out sampling, ie the party selected set of guests Number of pieces or piece goods, carried out their laboratory tests, the arithmetic mean count results that compare with the norms of standards.
Of particular importance is the estimation of the level of quality of the new tissue. In this case, the main indicator of the quality of the fabric – it is the intended purpose. According to the destination selected tissue specific indicators to assess its quality.
Additional, depending on the fiber composition, quality indicators are tearing strength, resistance to expanding, osypaemosti, education peeling strength fixing lint, abrasion resistance, hygroscopicity, steam and air, electrified, drape stiffness, wrinkle resistance, whiteness, opacity . Standards for the general and additional quality shall be in accordance with the purpose of tissue, the conditions of their use, type of raw material, structure, mode of production, primary and further processing.
The properties of the materials from which the product is made, the manufacturer shall notify the customer by applying characters to care. These symbols are applied to the product after the company – the manufacturer has conducted laboratory testing on the materials used for the manufacture of a particular model, a specific type of product. All these tests are provided regulatory and technical documentation and approval of the new model comes only after presentation of test reports. Consequently, the applied symbols are evidence of identity properties of materials used in the production of each model.
4 Labelling, packaging and storage of textiles
Terms of folding, labeling, packaging, storage and transport of textiles are produced in accordance with State standards.
When folding textile fabrics they are formed into pieces. Pieces complement one or more cuts to get a certain length. Cut length in the piece and the length of the piece must comply with the standards. Thus, for the mass of a piece of silk fabric mounted not more than 15 kg for linen – 30 kg. The length of the piece is normalized according to the structure of the material and its width. Ways of folding textile fabrics (tissues) are shown in Figure 5.
Figure 5. Ways of folding textile fabrics
Folding methods are also dependent on the type and width of the textile webs. Headquarters folded cloth in two, three or four fold in width around the tight seal (cardboard, plywood) or without it. Knurled produce on flat or circular pads or templates. Pile materials in order to avoid crushing the pile folded inside out without kinks on special patterns (star). Fabrics should be folded or dash off smoothly, without distortions, bends and dangling edge.
The package retains the quality of textile products during storage and transport. Packaging can be primary (internal) and external (for transportation and storage).
For primary packaging pieces of fabrics, nonwovens used paper, plastic wrap and other packaging materials. Folded piece goods in a certain amount placed in bundles or boxes. Some of them (handkerchiefs, etc..) Previously put in plastic or cellophane bags.
Fabric folded in pieces by rolling on the template. Pieces are formed from the tissues of one article, class, color, shade, a drawing or coloring. Pieces for retailers to be composed of one or more cuts, packaged in paper or plastic wrap. The length of the piece must conform to the standards laid down depending on the width of the surface density and type of fabric. The number of cuts in a piece of tissue should be no more than three, the minimum cut length in the piece depends on the type and width of the fabric. If the fabric folded across the entire width – both ends are left open. In tissue, folded in two, one end is left open. Wide fabrics sdvaivayutsya face inside. Velvet, velor wound face inside the entire width without kinks on a metal star.
Thus prepared fabrics and piece goods placed in a plywood or wooden boxes (hard outer carton), or wrapped in paper and sewn in the investment material cotton or synthetic fabric (soft outer carton), or mouthpiece, on all sides, and the investment is covered wrapping cloth, pressed , put the wooden slats and tied with iron wire or tape (semi-rigid outer packaging). By the flexible containers include bale, bales, bags, rolls (Figure 6).
Figure 6. Soft packing containers
In the soft container packed many tissues and piece goods (cotton, linen, wool, silk, other than fabrics of silk and pile), nonwovens, dimensional weight flap. In rigid containers – wooden boxes packed pile materials, crepe structures that can not be compressed. Boxes inside lining layer of paper, and after packaging, sealing.
Fabric label stamp and trademark label of cardboard or heavy paper. Marking textile materials may be primary (internal) and external. Internal marking is applied, usually on the wrong side, brand washable paint, contrasting in color with pictures and not passing on the front side. Stigma is applied to both ends of the piece, along the cut at a distance of not more than 10 mm from the edge of the piece or the edge. On stigma indicate manufacturer’s name, controller number OTC, and the length of fabric in the piece.
To a piece of textile materials in primary packaging product label attached light paperboard web. It must be artistically decorated and contain the following information: the name of the manufacturer, its trademark and location, product name and code, the number of cuts in the piece, its total yardage, variety, type of fiber used and their percentages, a kind of special finishing (creasing , water-repellent, and others.), color fastness, the retail price. On labels attached to the packs and boxes of piece goods, and note the number of items. Color label: for 1st grade – light tone; for the 2nd – with the blue stripe on the diagonal; for silk fabrics 3rd grade – with a red stripe on the diagonal.
On the outer packaging of each package be marked with the following information: number; name and article number, yardage, weight, number of pieces, or packets, the number of piece goods. Each package square balers make a map that show basic information about the packaged materials. On its back side paste samples of drawings and coloring materials indicating the number of pieces of each pattern and colors.
When transporting textiles prerequisite is to protect them from moisture, dirt, and other mechanical influences.
Storage is important to preserve the quality of textile materials. The necessary conditions are clean and ventilated warehouses, protected from direct sunlight, some humidity and temperature. At elevated temperatures, dry textiles, become stiff and maloelastichnymi due to aging of polymers. When the relative humidity is above 70%, they dampen and destroyed as a result of intensive development of microorganisms. With prolonged exposure to direct sunlight changes color, but at the same time it should be noted that the ultra-violet rays slow the progression of many microorganisms, and therefore warehouses should be provided with access to natural light. Woolen materials protect against moths protivomolevymi means and periodically browsing.
Placed on textiles podtovarnikah and racks at a distance from the floor at least 20 cm from the heating system – not less than 1 m.
Storage facilities for textile materials must be specialized by type and raw material composition (cotton, linen, wool and silk).
5 Preparation of textile goods for sale and sale
“Terms of the sale of certain types of food and non-food products” establishes the following requirements for sellers of textile products:
Textiles (fabrics and non-wovens and articles thereof), knitwear, sewing items (clothes, underwear, hats), fur and footwear before entering the trading floor must pass the pre-training, which includes unpacking, sorting of inspection and the goods; quality control of goods (by external characteristics), and the availability of the necessary information about the product and its manufacturer; if necessary, cleaning and otutyuzhivanie products and minor repairs.
Items offered for sale must be grouped by type, model, size, height and exhibited on the trading floor. Given the nature of trade in the sales area can be exposed specimens offered for sale of goods for which the buyer is given the opportunity to select and purchase of needed goods.
Knitted apparel products and footwear for men, women and children should be placed on the trading floor alone.
Fabrics are grouped by type and nature of the fibers from which they are made. Each tissue sample must also be accompanied by information about the percentage of fibers, of which it is made.
Products must have labels indicating their names, article, price, size, and growth.
The seller must provide the conditions for fitting products. For this purpose, trading rooms should be equipped with mirrors in fitting rooms, equipped with banquettes or benches stand.
Metering of woolen fabrics, batting and other heavy, bulky tissues in the sale of the buyer is made by applying a standard meter for hard tissue lying on the counter (table) in the free state, without folds. Thin and light fabric metered tough standard meter by discarding tissue on the counter with the free application without tension fabric to the meter.
Metering of all kinds of fabrics, except wool fabrics and knitted fabrics can also be made by way of imposing fabric counter (table) on one side of which is mounted Branding metal measuring tape.
It is forbidden to add to the purchase of cutting fabric, as well as selling pieces of fabric with a factory label and branded (khazzes all), if broken factory finish and the stamp is not delivered to the wrong side.
The person performing the sale in the presence of the buyer checks the quality of the product (by external examination), accuracy measures (number of), the correct calculation of the purchase price.
Goods are transferred to the buyer as packaged without charge for packing extra cost.
Together with the goods is transferred to the buyer a receipt, stating the name of the product and the seller, date of sale, art, variety and price of the goods, as well as the signature of the person conducting the sale itself.
Tissue samples were put on a rotating consoles to the island and wall slides. For woolen fabrics are recommended special piles to show tissue rolls complete with sliding tables to be measured.
Remeasure the fabric and check their quality on a special table with a mechanical device for winding fabrics for special cores. For measuring tissue on the trading floor can use a special table (3000X1200 mm). Depending on the method of displaying the necessary fabric buyer measure metered or on the trading floor (with Laid-roll), or in a special room. Realize tissues should allow the buyer to get acquainted with the texture, coloring, tonality.
In the trading floor mounted billboards with pictures and drawings of promising models of clothes, set the podium to demonstrate tissue on mannequins. Also organized additional services (for cutting fabrics, curtains and blinds manufacturing, etc.), production and sale of semi-finished products from commercially available fabrics, as well as sale of related products.
6 Linen fabric new generation modern aesthetics, comfort, practicality
Modern method of finishing fabrics of cellulosic fibers, including linen, is the bio-polishing – “bioshlifovka.” This advanced technology has been developed in Japan, where the first application in the processing of knitted fabrics. The aim of the project was to create the effect of a smooth fabric and giving it softness without the use of traditional chemicals. Additional works have caused the beginning of a new technology in the textile industry.
Today, bio-polishing very successfully applied to the linen fabric. The essence of this process is the surface modification of tissue enzymes. Due to this fact, a smoother surface with fewer protruding fibers, less tendency to peel, the best drape fabric, iridescent shine and softness to the touch.
Linen not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of the fabric, but, above all, provide excellent hygienic and physiological properties. These qualities are illustrated by the following examples.
1) “Breathable” product “- a new generation of textile products. They allow free flowing of water vapor, creating a favorable microclimate in the space of” the body – clothes – environment. “Structure of multilayer products, it uses the inhomogeneity of the fibers in the adsorption of water that is hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers.
Linen fibers are hydrophilic, readily absorb water. They are characterized by a high capacity of water absorption. Flax can absorb about 20% moisture without becoming wet to the touch, which is particularly important, for example for washing. Strongly hydrophobic synthetic fibers are polypropylene. Due to these properties of absorbent tissue can be projected two-layer fabric that quickly wicks moisture away from the body surface. The hydrophobic fabric layer (flax fiber) located near the skin, provides a feeling of warmth and dryness. Outer layer (propylene fibers) to absorb moisture, and outputs it outside.
2) The healing properties of flax valued in the Middle Ages in the treatment of skin diseases. Today, products made from this fiber are the most hygienic, good for health. Studies have shown that clothing made ??of synthetic fibers can be harmful to humans. This is due to the advent of electric charges during wear, which adversely affect the functioning of the heart. Therefore, we recommend the use of ready-made garments of natural fibers, including linen.
In Lodz Polytechnic Institute, at the Department of Physics, fiber, studies have been conducted on the effect of raw material composition and arrangement of the fibers on the electrostatic properties of flax-polyester fabrics. The result was evaluated dependence electrostatic properties of tissues from flax fiber content, and also on the arrangement of fibers in the fabric, depending on the weave (rep, waffle, crepe, scar). Adding to polyester fabrics flax causes favorable to reduce their discharges. To reduce the electrification also affects tissue architecture defined weave.
In recent years in the textile industry has been growing interest in natural fibers. Most of the leading manufacturers of clothing and home textiles has been to include in their collection of articles made ??of linen fabrics.
Thus, for a period of revival of flax, which successfully continues to this day, and flax firmly holds the position of noble, elegant and very valuable fiber.
7 Organization of advertising in the store textiles
In advertising, the most important to create fabrics with buyers understanding of cut of some kinds of garments for which this fabric can be used. Therefore, the show gives a good effect on mannequins tissue in conjunction with print advertising information.
In print advertising, in addition to information about the features of various tissues (commodity quality and consumer properties), you can report the following:
location of product groups in certain tissues of the points of sale;
description of the quality of fabrics, their purpose, method of washing or cleaning;
kinds of additional services related to the purchase of fabrics (cutters, semi-finished products for sale, etc.).
Also an important role in the sales area can play pointers that, in addition to its primary role of “controllers” movement customer flows in the salesroom shop may play another role – advertising. They recall the well-known customers related products attract their attention to the goods-innovations.
Pointers – different kinds of boards, arrows, charts, pictograms – to help customers navigate the trade divisions and sections, and easily find the right product.